SPLITTING
Splitting firewood is simply breaking up your round logs into sticks or – as we call them in the biz – “splits”. The main purpose of splitting firewood logs is to allow them to dry faster, although splitting wood also helps you get the right sized log for your fire pit or fireplace. Splitting also makes the firewood a lot easier to stack neatly. (Related Article: How to stack firewood)
We have a few different options when it comes to splitting. If you fancy yourself a lumberjack you can take up one of the more manual methods like using an axe or maul.
Some even prefer to use a wedge and a sledgehammer.
When ENFD started out, we (and by “we” I mean by back) couldn’t keep up with the fully manual methods above. However, we also weren’t ready to invest in a hydraulic log splitter. In our search, we found this pretty cool contraption from Logosol and still find ourselves loaning it out to friends that need a small amount of splitting done. For you CrossFit nuts out there, it’s a little like doing medicine ball slams!
When we were ready to graduate from the guillotine, we researched entry-level gas-powered hydraulic splitters and ultimately went with this 22 Ton Powerhorse model from Northern Tool. For most homeowners this is bordering on overkill, but for our small business it felt just right at slightly under $1,000 (promotional price back in 2019). For the same concept but “man-powered” hydraulics, you could spend under $200 and get a model like this one from The Home Depot. The Home Depot also offers rental options for just over $100/day on gas-powered hydraulic splitters. To maximize your time with the rental, just make sure you have all your logs cut to size and in an accessible position for the splitter.
If you feel the need for even more horsepower, the next level up on splitters include features like hydraulic log lifts and multiple split wedges (most commonly a 4-way or 5-way)
SEASONING
“Seasoning” is the process by which most people naturally dry their firewood. Simply put, the firewood sits outdoors, split, in the elements for a few seasons to allow the air and sun to dry it out. This process is important because green (fresh) or wet wood is 1. A lot harder to burn 2. Let’s off a lot more smoke and 3. Releases harmful creosote that could create a fire hazard in your chimney. How do we know if wood is fully seasoned? Here at East Nashville Firewood Delivery, we use this affordable but accurate moisture meter to test moisture content. For wood to be considered “seasoned” the moisture content on a fresh split of the wood should read 20% or less.
Because two of the most important factors to seasoning are airflow and sun, we need to consider where we keep our wood.
First, get it off the ground. Anytime I see a wood stack made directly on the ground and see that rotted first bottom row, I cringe. What a waste of good firewood! There are so many simple DIY solutions for wood racks that there’s really no excuse to start your stack on the ground. (Related Article: Our favorite DIY wood rack)
Sun and wind, YES! Rain, NO! You want your stack placed so that it gets maximum sunlight and airflow. That means you should avoid stacking it against a building or fence where it will be shaded most of the day. If you design or build a rack, it’s also important that you don’t completely box in your wood so that it can’t catch a breeze. At the same time you want to cover the top of your stack to protect it from the rain. On the “poor man’s” side of the spectrum some people like to just cover the top with a tarp. If you do choose this option, make sure you’re just covering the top. If you “tent-in” your wood with a tarp, it will trap in moisture which can cause mold growth and rotting to progress more quickly. A little more fancy setup could be a woodshed with a corrugated roof but open sides.
How long? The length of seasoning depends on all sorts of factors. As you can imagine the more rain and breeze and lower humidity in your area, the faster the wood can naturally dry. Different species of wood will also tend to dry at different speeds. For instance, a very dense hardwood like a red oak can take a few years to season. From our experience, some wood has taken as little as 3 months to achieve the ideal moisture content. The important part here is that you check in during the process and make sure you’re testing fresh splits of the wood, not just the outside. Many times we have heard of firewood sellers telling customers they did a moisture reading that was below 20% and we find out the inside of the wood is still green. As you can imagine, the core of any piece of wood is the last to dry, so always try to test the innermost, freshest split of any log.